Rocky Mountaineer — It’s the Journey
- Pat Dunlap Evans
- Sep 2
- 16 min read
Updated: Oct 24
Just outside my grandmother’s lake cottage in western Michigan, there was a railroad track. As little kids visiting from Texas, my sister and I used to love hearing the locomotive coming twice a day. The roar of its engines, the haunting call of its horn, and the clickety-clack of the rail cars were magic to a child. And I fell in love with trains.
After Bill and I married almost 20 years ago, we discovered a mutual desire to travel by train and eventually booked a 24-hour journey between Austin and Chicago on the Texas Eagle. This was Amtrak, and although we booked first class, our journey and accommodations were what we call institutional. The highlights were the excellent food served in the dining car and the views out our windows as we sailed by.
Later on, Bill was watching a Mighty Trains YouTube video that featured the Rocky Mountaineer. This iconic passenger train travels through Alberta and British Columbia, offering travelers breathtaking views and extraordinary natural panoramas. We put it on our bucket list. Although costly, it's in high demand, so you must book about a year in advance. So, from August 8 to August 16, 2025, Bill and I completed the Rocky Mountaineer Circle Tour, which begins in Vancouver, Canada, then heads eastward to a whistle stop mining town called Kamloops for a one-night stay. Then, it's on to Banff for two nights. By bus, you then go to Lake Louise for one night and Jasper National Park for two nights. And you circle back by a different route to Kamloops for one night and finish your journey in Vancouver. This Circle Tour is not what everyone takes, but it does provide four days on the train, rather than the two days most other tours include.
Banff
On our free day in Banff, a small ski town set among the soaring Rockies, we took a taxi into town to do a bit of shopping and have dinner, but it was very crowded with visitors from all over the world. The people who work in Banff are also from all over the world, with young people in their 20s flocking here as “the place to be,” we were told. Our dinner was at an overrated restaurant, so I won’t recommend it. Our hotel was the Fairmont-owned Rimrock Resort, a historic hotel that has seen better days. It will be completely renovated over the next year or two. Regardless, our room had picture-perfect views of the surrounding Rocky Mountains.
Emerald Lake and Lake Louise
The next morning, we were loaded onto a luxury motor coach and driven to the Lake Louise Fairmont Chateau, which is only 37 miles away, but our trip took us on a circuitous route with stops to view gorgeous sights such as the glacially fed Emerald Lake.
Bill and I made a mistake by not having breakfast before getting on the bus. We figured we’d get lunch at the Chateau, but we didn’t arrive until 3:00 p.m., and by then, we were starving and dehydrated. Turns out the motorcoaches do not provide water, so it’s important to bring a water bottle along to refill.
Lesson learned, Bill and I lapped up a quart of water and a late lunch at the Louisa Cafe, which sits on the aqua Lake Louise. All glacial lakes get their hues what is called rock or glacier flour. Glaciers grind against rocks as they move, breaking them down into extremely fine powders that scatter sunlight, preferentially reflecting blue and green light wavelengths, creating the characteristic vibrant and often turquoise colors. We also had a picture-perfect view of Lake Louise out our hotel room window.
That evening, we bought a water bottle and two muffins for our breakfast, in preparation for our journey to the Ice Fields. We'd learned our lesson, but that didn't mean we didn't make any more mistakes.
Columbia Ice Fields
On our bus tour through the Columbia Ice Fields, glaciers and aqua lakes appear at almost every turn. We had a free buffet lunch at the Columbia Icefield Discovery Centre, and a trip onto an iceberg via an Ice Explorer. I had brought specific shoes to handle the slippery ice, and those worked well. But Bill’s shoes didn't. Poor guy couldn't move without almost falling down, while I wanted to trounce all over the place. Seeing him so vulnerable, I helped him get back on the Ice Explorer, where we waited for everyone to stop slipping and sliding. Several people took a header!
We had several other vista stops along the way, but finally landed at the Jasper National Park Lodge, a historic edifice now operated by Fairmont/Accor. Dinner was in the main lobby restaurant, since there was no time to find a restaurant in town and figure out how to get anywhere.
Jasper National Park Lodge
Unfortunately, it rained the entire time we were in the Jasper National Park. Bill wanted to simply stay in the room and rest, while I wanted to take a tour of the park. But, even with the rain, I felt compelled to do laundry, because I had gone through all of the clothes I'd brought and didn't want to be the stinky girl on the train. So, after convincing Bill how fun this would be, LOL, we gathered up our laundry bags and took a $26 (CAD) taxi into Jasper town. There is a hotel shuttle, but we missed it, and the next one wasn't for hours.
In Jasper, we found a wonderful coin-operated laundry called the Snow Dome, where people from all over the world get a cup of coffee while figuring out how to operate the laundry machines. I helped out a few Asian couples, while a couple from Australia loaned me three fabric softener tissues. The laundry had a coffee bar, so Bill enjoyed lounging on the sofas with his espresso, while I tended our load. His trade-off was that he would carry both laundry bags. Yay.
I ran a couple of drug store errands while the clothes dried, but the rain did not let up. So, for lunch, we went next door to a pizza spot where I got a really good salad, and Bill ate a small pizza. Then we trudged through the downpour — Bill cussing all the way — to stand at the crowded hotel shuttle stop to get back to the lodge. (We should have called the taxi.) Unfortunately, the rain never let up, but we had an absolutely delicious meal that evening in the hotel’s Osso Trattoria restaurant.
As I Keep Saying, It's About the Journey
The Circle Tour is quite arduous. You're never anywhere long enough to rest. You get settled into your room, and the next morning, you must have your bags ready for early pickup. Then off you go on a bus or the train. At the station in Jasper we join a “Journey through the Clouds” tour back to Kamloops, then on to Vancouver. (The first route we were on was called “First Passage to the West,” only we were heading east. That route is also available out of Calgary, heading west toward Vancouver. The reason I booked this was, we wanted more time on the train, and also, I could not get United flights out of Calgary.)
Another Weary Night in Kamloops
We were tired and hungry by the time we arrived in Kamloops, but the hunger was our fault because, dumb us, we skipped lunch on the train. We were simply too full of five-star cuisine, including a wonderful breakfast. But every time we skipped a meal, this led to trouble later. So, back at the Sandman Hotel, we ordered late-night room service, which was, well, at least food. And our room turned out to be a suite with a full kitchenette, which was lovely to have, even in a two-star hotel.
The next morning, we were back the train. Unfortunately, our journey was indeed through the clouds. We were unable to see Canada's highest peak, Mount Logan, topping off at 19,551 feet. But eventually, the weather cleared, and we were able to see the magnificent 300-foot Pyramid Falls, a site you can only see from the train or on foot.
After a long day drifting into Vancouver, with views of rivers, big-horned sheep, and even more eagles, we were bused fairly late to the Fairmont Waterfront Hotel in Vancouver.
Bill and I headed straight for the restaurant to avoid the eventual crowds. Like the meals we had in all of the Fairmont properties, the food was five-star but very expensive. (I've noted many more more pros and cons about trip costs in the list below.)
Are We Glad We Went on This Trip?
A resounding YES. For rail travel this was five-star, and we were very impressed by the Rocky Mountaineer team's amazing orchestration of getting 700 people onto 25 rail cars, having them fed delicious food and drinks, entertained by personable guides, treated to spacious, comfortable seating (in Gold Leaf Service), and handling everyone’s luggage in such an effective manner. We did not have to touch a bag, other than to open and close it in our rooms.
Being on board the iconic Rocky Mountaineer was a thrill, and I get emotional remembering the times when I went down to the platform to watch the locomotive pull our 20+ cars around a bend.
Problem Was, Bill and I Are Old
Would we do this again? No. Perhaps we were a bit too old and ornery for this journey. You're in and out of rail cars, in and out of buses, in and out of hotels, up and down stairs, and walking here, there, and yon to get where you need to go. And, during the two-night major resort stays, you are without convenient transportation. These are rural locations without Uber service, so hailing an expensive taxi from the one company in town is what you have to do to dine beyond the resorts, unless you take one of the local public buses in Banff or the occasional hotel shuttle in Jasper.
Bill and I also found out that we are not tour people. We enjoy travelling at a more leisurely pace, perhaps seeing fewer sites, but relishing more time to explore one location. We saw everything anyone would ever want to see, in a fairly short period, but I would love to return to Banff, as well as Lake Louise to simply spend time in both locations, while Bill enjoyed the natural, rustic beauty of Jasper National Park and wanted to explore more there.
Raves and Rants
To the Rocky Mountaineer team and staff, all I can say is congratulations on creating a magnificent operation. Other than a few nicks and picks, our experience was without flaw. I treasure how local residents came out of their homes and stepped out of their cars to wave at the train as we passed by. The Rocky Mountaineer is an icon in their provinces, in fact, a “Mighty Train” as featured on YouTube.
If you consider going, here's a link to a “Retired Travelers” video review that says it all, and shows you many of the sites we experienced as well. I agree with most everything this retired couple says, except that throughout our journey, we received better service and room views by ponying up for the “Superior” room option than the lower-level rooms had. The top-level “Premium” room selection was not available when we booked. I might have booked it, but it is pricey.
Below is an alphabetized list of some subjects you may want to know. Scroll through, but don't miss Louise and Jasper under the subhead: Souvenirs.
Booze: After breakfast service, booze flows freely, especially margaritas and Bailey’s Irish Cream. Bill and I had fantasized before our trip that we would drink and eat like Caligula, but in reality, we maybe had one or two drinks in the late afternoon. However, on our return trip to Vancouver, some rather drunken Aussies took up the entire front of our car. This bunch of partiers kept our hosts so busy making drinks, we wondered if they would run out of booze. Our host later whispered that he had a tour group one time that went through 28 bottles of Baileys in one day. So if you want to booze it up, this is the place you can do it.
Camaraderie: You will enjoy wonderful camaraderie along the way, but unless you reach out a bit, you’ll only meet your dining segment, which is about one-third of the train car. Our particular car had three physicians on it, including my internist hubby Bill, a cardiologist from Ohio, and a retinal specialist from Minneapolis, so Bill got to talk “doctor” over lunch with them and their wives. We also had some aged 50-ish software engineers from Ottawa and an intellectual French couple who now live in Quebec. Other than the drunken Aussie tour group, most of our car was full of people like us, that is, retirees.
Clothing: Our trip was from August 6-16, and mistakenly, I thought it was chilly at the elevations we would be in. But I found myself quite warm during much of the journey. The dress aboard the train is specified as casual, so I saw everything from jeans and sneakers to Neiman Marcus designer wear. Having “dressy casual” outfits along is good for evenings. During the day, “nice” casual is what you should wear. Ripped jeans, flip flops, and a tank T-shirt are not gonna cut it. But almost everyone was wearing sneakers, designer and just good ol’ “tennies.” Oh, and bring a hat! My window seat on the train was frequently in the sun, so I used my a hat to shield my eyes, both on and off the train. You'll also need a light rain jacket on the train to cover yourself when the air conditioner is blowing. And, of course, you'll need it outside because it rains up in these parts.
Cost: This is no bargain journey. Our tour guide Brandon joked that “B.C.,” which is short for British Columbia, means “Bring Cash.” Although there are ways to book this train trip that can save you thousands, we had budgeted for the costs. To us, this was a bucket list journey, so we went for the Gold Leaf Service and the Superior room level. Some fellow passengers, for example, a French couple from Quebec, did not use Rocky Mountaineer hotels but stayed at local YWCAs. So, they enjoyed Gold Leaf Service on the train but did not pay the thousands we did for the Fairmont properties. I’m not sure they went on the bus tours either, so you can ride the train, but do your own thing at the various national parks. Staying at the Fairmonts also means you’ll be somewhat trapped in a place with very high costs for five-star food. Some people used a travel agent to book the hotels and tours separately, but we booked through Rocky Mountaineer, primarily to have the fabulous luggage service. I’m telling you, when you are weary after 12 hours on the train, you don’t want to "F" with your bags. The Circle Tour, with four days instead of two aboard the Rocky Mountaineer, and our one added night at the Fairmont, cost just over $20,000, while our dinners and other add-ons mounted up. Yes, that’s a lot of money, but luckily, we had enough miles to fly first class for “free,” which made the whole thing (including expensive dinners) cost about $23,000.
COVID Petri Dish?: Two people aboard our car had severe illnesses. One lady was hacking her head off most of the trip, and another fellow, bless his heart, was clearly on his last legs and doing a true end-of-life trip with his wife. Their conditions were annoyances during our journey, as no one wants to hear coughing, hacking, and spewing all day. In fact, one of them may have had COVID. I came down with it five days after returning from our journey. Yes, I could have caught it on the airplane going home, or in the airport, who knows? But Bill came down with it five days after I did, and we both had difficulty recovering because we were so exhausted from this go-go-go journey.
Dining Car: Like most trains, the dining cars offer slightly cramped booth seating, and you sit with fellow passengers. This is a good way to meet your travel mates. My only complaint was that we dined repeatedly with the same segment of people. I wanted to meet some of the other people in our car, but they were not in our section.
Food: You receive breakfast, lunch, and snacks each day. There are many options to choose from, so you will not be disappointed. I’d rate the food at a four-star level, although some dishes indeed were five-star. If the train runs way late, like 9:00 p.m., you will get a token dinner, called “the chicken dinner.” That was the only meal that wasn’t A+; it was kind of like a TV dinner. We got that on our first night in Kamloops. On our rainy return trip into Kamloops, I joked to a travel partner behind us that we were likely to “get the chicken dinner again.” She got up out of her seat, threw herself on her back across two empty seats, and hollered, “I refused to eat the chicken dinner again, and you cannot make me!” We all laughed. Other than that one miss, you will not go hungry. Dietary restrictions are honored; I had gluten-free meals, while Bill kept to diabetic desserts. In fact, the chef prepped a sugar-free chocolate mousse for Bill that became “famous” during our journey. It seems everybody wanted one.
Ground Crews: One thing you must do after you arrive at your starting hotel is to check in with the "Rocky Desk," which will be in a designated room. Your Rocky rep will go over everything with you and give you your luggage tags, which you attach to your bags. During the trip, at every stop, we were greeted aboard our buses by Rocky ground hosts, who told us a bit about each location and gave an overview of what would happen next. At each hotel, another Rocky host came on board to give us our room keycards. This was such a relief at not having to check in.
Hosts: Each train car has assigned hosts, with one leader and three others to serve you. Our lead host coming out of Vancouver was “Brandon,” who was a witty delight. His tour guide narration and banter kept us chuckling throughout our first very long day. I still remember his birthday song that he sang to celebrate birthdays and anniversaries. He said he couldn't carry a tune, so it went, "This is your song. It's not very long. Hey!" On our return circle trip back to Vancouver, our host was “Shawn” (I think), who was less experienced than Brandon but did a fine job. Shawn was, however, very busy with the drunken Aussie tour group in the front of the car. So he did not do as much tour guide narration, and we kind of missed Brandon.
Hotels: I've seen negative comments online about the hotel rooms along the route, and I think they're mostly about the hotels in Kamloops and the Rimrock Resort in Banff. Kamloops is a whistle-stop mining and ranching town with 100,000 people, and the best hotels are 2.5 stars. Rocky Mountaineer warns you that these are not luxury properties. In fact, they are just okay, but I've certainly stayed in worse places. Heck, on our return trip to Kamloops, we had a spacious suite at the Sandman Hotel with a balcony and a kitchenette. I think the people who complain are the ones who bought the lowest level of room service.
Then again, the Rimrock Resort in Banff is a grand historic property, but shows its wear. The rooms were clean and had the stylish Fairmont “hidden” amenities of an espresso machine and tea kettle, but the surroundings were rather beat up. Fairmont is closing this hotel for renovations, and I was told by staff that it was going to be gutted and turned into a high-end facility that will be the upper-crust sister to the nearby sister Fairmont. Regardless, we had picture-postcard views from our room.
The Fairmont Chateau at Lake Louise is a gorgeous property, and by the afternoon we arrived, we were very hungry, because we had made the mistake of skipping breakfast on the train. At the very crowded hotel, we had to walk quite a distance to find the Louisa restaurant, which had great food, a view of the aquamarine Lake Louise, and fabulous service. Later that night, we ate in the German fondue restaurant. Again, the service and the food were excellent, although very expensive. We only had one night there, but wished we had one more free day. Our rooms were very nicely furnished and I think they'd been renovated recently.
At Jasper National Park Lodge, which is also operated by Fairmont/Accor, we enjoyed the space of having an individual cabin with a view of the lake. These have been renovated/refurbished and have very nice amenities. Others who did not have our room level did not have the lake views. The food in the giant main lobby restaurant was 3.5 stars, although we had a view of the lake. The next night, we enjoyed five-star food and service at the Osso Trattoria on the lower level, and also had a view of the lake through the rain.
The Fairmont Waterfront in Vancouver is a lovely property, but it was extremely expensive. We added one extra night before our train tour, which cost $1,000 just for that one night. Our final night in Vancouver, we ate in the restaurant to save time, and I ordered a martini, which arrived half full. I thought, well, that's a single, so I ordered a second, only to discover when they presented the bill that they had charged us $26 for each martini. Yikes, $52 (CAD) for two martinis?
Hotel Service: At the time we were travelling, a Tauck tour was trailing along with us, as well as several cruise-tour groups. In fact, it was darn crowded wherever we went, so service in the hotels was slow. One staffer admitted they were overwhelmed by the number of visitors. Maybe everybody is going to Canada instead of to America. (Gee, I wonder why.)
Internet and Cell Service: You will not have it on the train unless you are near a good-sized town (a rarity). Otherwise, you can log in at the hotels each evening.
Lavatories: Spacious and well-cared-for, although we could have used three. We had two.
Luggage Handling: A+ Our bags were in our rooms when we arrived and picked up for us every morning. We did, however, get weary of living out of our suitcases. We rolled our clothing; it’s the only way to find your stuff. After I got home, I did more laundry and found myself rolling my clothes out of habit.
Souvenirs: On our second day, the staff passed around pamphlets with souvenir options, ranging from model locomotives to holiday ornaments and stuffed bears. Here are two of souvenirs from the trip: Jasper and Louise, complete with Rocky Mountaineer uniforms. They joined Bill's emotional support polar bear Thomas.
Staff: The Rocky Mountaineer staff we chatted with love their jobs. This is seasonal work, and some return to their hometowns to do all sorts of things, from working in restaurants and having cleaning services to, well, one woman we spoke with was a taxidermist in the offseason. Overall, the Canadians we met (both travelers and service staff) were extraordinarily helpful, polite, and very much like Americans can be, but are becoming harder to find in this era of "entitled Americans."
Tipping: You do not tip the Rocky Mountaineer staff, but you are supposed to tip the bus tour staff, as they are outside partners.
Train Cars: For us, the Gold Leaf Service was the way to go. But the Silver Leaf Service is reportedly very nice, too. The Gold Leaf has the two-story, clear-domed car you see in ads and videos. The seats are very comfy and spacious. There’s room for a small bag to bring with you. You can hang your jacket on a little hook. And the seats have electronically controlled seat backs, footrests, heating, and lumbar support.
Views and Vistas: You can take photos through the clear glass of the car by placing your camera or iPhone next to the window. Otherwise, you get reflections. Another place to take photos is out on the lower-level outdoor platform at the back of the car. I frequently went down to experience the train in motion, get fresh air, and enjoy the outdoor views. You will see everything from rushing rivers, waterfalls, and streams to towering mountains, glaciers, aqua lakes, verdant forests and trees, bald eagles, deer, bear, elk, longhorn sheep, egrets, and wild horses.
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